What does the affix SA in the address of NOMOS Glashütte mean?
They stand for Saxony, as there are 35 towns in Germany that go by the name of Glashütte, and they need to be differentiated. Since 2005, we no longer have the affix SA in our logo. It has been retained, however, as part of our address.
Is the name Glashütte protected?
Yes, most definitely. Not every company based in Glashütte is allowed to write “Glashütte” on its watches. A number of court cases have established the precedent that only companies that produce at least 50 percent of the movements’ value in Glashütte may use the name of the town. This helps everyone: the rulings safeguard jobs in the town of Glashütte and you, the customer, are guaranteed the highest watch making quality, a tradition to which we are committed. NOMOS Glashütte designs, develops, and builds its own movements, which means that much more than the required 50 percent is produced on-site—up to 95 percent, in fact.
A few years ago, it became known that ETA decided to no longer supply companies with ébauche kits. Has NOMOS been affected by this?
NOMOS is not endangered by this decision, for NOMOS Glashütte no longer uses ETA movements. This decision is aimed at all the black sheep who use ETA movements in forgeries, thus damaging the good name of ETA. However, NOMOS movements are our own and are made in Glashütte. Whether automatic or manually wound, our movements are of the highest precision and feature horological specialties such as the Glashütte three-quarter plate, a Triovis fine adjustment system, stop-seconds, tempered blue screws, sunburst decoration, and Glashütte ribbing. The work performed on every watch is mainly work done by hand. If it serves quality and precision, however, we at NOMOS Glashütte do use high-tech production methods such as CNC and laser technology. Only individual parts such as jewels, which we use as bearings in the movements, are purchased from suppliers according to our designs.
What does the designation “DUW” stand for?
DUW 1001 and DUW 2002 are the names of the first two movements with the inscription “Deutsche Uhrenwerke NOMOS Glashütte” (German watch movements NOMOS Glashütte). There is a good reason for the new name.
NOMOS Glashütte had been building seven different watch movements over the years and decades. They were produced with great accuracy again and again—and, wherever possible, were further developed and improved. Now with these new calibers—and the new watches powered by them—we have once again brought the effort involved in construction and production to a new peak. With these watches showing exactly what we can do: They contain all our knowledge and skill, concentrated.
Why are some NOMOS watches labeled with "Made in Germany" and others with only "Germany"?
The inscription "Made in Germany" began appearing on our watches in mid-2003. Later, when we reorganized production and began making our own movements in April 2005, we also shortened the lettering on the face to read simply "Germany." After a while, we changed this diminutive label back to "Made in Germany" because we realized it actually does have a nicer ring to it.
How are NOMOS watches adjusted?
The fine adjustment regulator (something that few manufacturers even offer at all) ensures the greatest possible accuracy. Before leaving NOMOS Glashütte, all watches are thoroughly put through their paces—the NOMOS controllers spend several days testing them in six different positions to ensure each watch is working properly.
What is the NOMOS swing system?
The swing system, also known as the escapement, assortiment, or reglage, is the heart of a mechanical watch and comprised of the balance, balance spring, pallet wheel, and pallet. It sets the pace and ensures that the watch is accurate. It is a declaration of independence for NOMOS Glashütte to be able to produce its own swing system, and a work of considerable watchmaking skill.
Is the NOMOS swing system at work in all NOMOS models?
It will be in the future. The NOMOS swing system will gradually be extended to all current watch models.
Can I have the NOMOS swing system built into my watch at a later date?
The Nivarox escapement, which we have used in all our watch models until now and are still using in some models, is of very good quality and ensures excellent accuracy. As long as there is no damage to any of the parts, the current escapement will not be replaced with the new NOMOS swing system. NOMOS Glashütte will gradually introduce this new escapement into all its watch movements.
How exact is my watch?
Very exact indeed. NOMOS watches often achieve accuracies that are better than those that apply for chronometers. Accuracy is always dependent on a number of factors, such as when the watch was last wound and how it is placed overnight—even the temperature can play a role.
Allergies: Does NOMOS use nickel-free stainless steel? And what other materials?
The so-called "nickel regulation" has been in effect since June 2000. It says that objects that touch the skin directly and for extended periods of time may only give off 0.5 micrograms of nickel per square centimeter of skin per week. In general, it doesn't matter how high the percentage of nickel in any given alloy is. Much more important is how much nickel is passed on to the skin.
NOMOS uses 316 L stainless steel for all cases and buckles. This type of stainless steel is not fully free of nickel, but it does not pass nickel on to the skin; the amount of nickel in the alloy is about 12 percent. Thus, the amount of nickel passed to the skin is less than 0.2 micrograms per square centimeter per week and far below the medicinally acceptable amount. Other stainless steel alloys might have a lower percentual amount of nickel in the alloy, but they pass more of it on to the skin.
Nevertheless, it is a fact that allergies don't give a hoot about regulations and limits. We only hear very, very rarely of cases where people were not able to tolerate the materials we use. Unfortunately, however, allergic reactions can never be ruled out all together. We advise people who are very sensitive to choose—in consultation with his or her physician—a material which, in all probability, will not provoke an allergic reaction.
It is our goal to use the best possible materials for you. And this is not only true for the steel we use. For example, our straps are tanned in an elaborate manufacturing process using vegetable lye only.
Can I swim or shower with my watch?
If your NOMOS watch has the addition "20 ATM" on its back, you can go diving with it—"water resistant to 200 meters" means the same thing. The description "10 ATM" reveals that your watch is suitable for swimming and snorkeling; the engraving "5 ATM" means that you can shower with your watch on. All other NOMOS watches (including those with no particular denotation of water resistance on their backs) are protected to 3 atm and generally prefer to stay dry. Wearing them while washing your hands will not cause them any problems, but you should take them off before a dip in the pool. It is recommended to have the water resistance of your watch checked once a year by a retailer. It only takes a moment.
Please note: Ahoi comes with a screw-drown crown. Please remember to screw the crown back in after use—as this is the only way to ensure your watch stays water resistant. To do so, gently push down the crown in its default position and turn it clockwise. The crown should never be wound while underwater.
How, how often, and when should I wind my watch?
If you wear a NOMOS automatic, you don't have to do much. Your watch winds itself using the motion of your arm. The spring in the automatic movement tensions itself regardless of how the arm is moving.
We recommend to the owners of manually wound watches to wind your watches regularly—best is every morning. Then it will have enough energy for the whole day to withstand all of the trials and tribulations you might undergo.
Wind your watch by turning the crown clockwise between your thumb and forefinger until you feel a clear point of resistance. Once your watch is fully wound, your NOMOS has a power reserve of 43 hours. Without having to rewind, it will run for two days. Only the watches with date have a little less (42 hours), as the changing the date costs the watch energy.
Does it damage my NOMOS automatic watch if I always wind it by hand?
When you wind certain watches by hand, nearly all the wheels in the movement turn, even the rotor. You can even feel this as you are winding.
But the designers of NOMOS automatic watches have installed a clutch mechanism, so that all parts in the movement stand still when it is wound by hand. This also avoids wear and tear on the movement. So, there is no need to worry about winding your NOMOS automatic watch by hand every day. And if you should happen to occasionally forget to wind it, the self-winding mechanism will calmly and quietly take on this job for you.
Please note that the extra-thin DUW 3001 movement is constructed in a way that means the rotor stops when it is fully wound. After all, this protects the fine caliber against wear.
How can I set the date on my NOMOS?
a) The calibers DUW 4101, DUW 4401, DUW 5101, and Zeta
This is how it's done: You just pull out the crown and turn the hand forward until the date has changed once. Then turn the hand back at least three or four hours until you hear a slight cracking sound. By turning it forward again by about three hours, you will have changed it again. Repeat this process until you have reached your desired date. Now you can set the time on your watch keeping the 24-hour rhythm of the day in mind. This means, for example, if it is 3 o'clock pm, you will need to turn the hands forward past the 12. Then the date won't change at noon the following day. Even though this might sound somewhat complicated, it is really quite simple. Just try it. In the little guarantee booklet that you received along with your watch, the setting of the date is also described in detail.
b) The NOMOS neomatik caliber DUW 6101
Watches with this neomatik caliber can be set even more quickly. In the second crown position—which can be found by pulling out the crown just a little—the date can be set forward and backwards with ease; just a half-turn of the crown will move the date once. Furthermore, DUW 6101 has a very small time frame for the date change: simply avoid resetting the date between 11:15 pm and 0:45 am. If you do so accidently, however, don’t worry; DUW 6101 is constructed so that this will not damage the mechanism. Should the date come to a halt while switching between two dates, simply pull the crown out as far as it will go and set the time to shortly after one o'clock in the morning—or back to 11 o'clock at night. Then the date display will return to its original position.
To set the time, just pull the crown a little further out—into the third position.
Can my steel watch also be equipped with a sapphire crystal case back?
In general, all of our watches except Tetra 27 and Tangente Sport can be refitted with a sapphire crystal case back. Upon request we'll be happy to send you an offer.
I have a watch winder. What is the best setting for my NOMOS watch?
The best setting is 650 with alternating rotation direction.
What happens when my watch becomes magnetized?
There are a great number of magnetic fields in our everyday environment—including anywhere where electricity is present, such as close to personal electronic devices. Unfortunately, these magnetic fields can have a negative effect on a mechanical watch: they can affect the escapement parts of the caliber, stopping it from working properly. This is usually noticeable by a watch suddenly gaining time. However, losing time or stopping all together can also be a consequence of a watch becoming magnetized.
If you suspect that your watch has become magnetized, we recommend taking it to your authorized retailer for inspection. This should only take a couple of minutes; the watch can be quickly demagnetized with the help of a demagnetizing device, if required. Of course, you can also send your NOMOS directly to us in Glashütte. However, please note: since magnetization is not a defect of the watch, we are unfortunately unable to carry this service out under guarantee.
Why are NOMOS watches with a second time zone different from other watches with this function?
Unlike most watches that can show two times at once, NOMOS watches need no additional day/night display, because the 24-hour disc makes it easy to see whether it is now day or night at home. In every way, these watches are simpler and more readable than most other watches with this function—because on the world timers from NOMOS Glashütte, the normal, large hands always show the local time, as we are accustomed to.
What use is a world-time watch to me, anyway?
When you are on business abroad and need to call the tax office or your boss at home, to wake up your darling at the other end of the world, to send your children to bed by telephone, to celebrate mutual yearning, or to be close to friends; so, actually, always and for almost everything, unless you live timelessly and tied solely to your own home soil.
What is the difference between the Tangomat GMT and the Zürich world time?
Primarily the design! But there are also technical differences: the dial of Zürich shows all time zones at once. The time zones are distinguished by the names of well-known cities in these zones. Thus, without adjusting the watch, you can see how light it is for your sister in Mexico or in Moscow where your old pen pal lives. The watch always shows the difference from the other time zones. Just add the appropriate number of hours to or subtract them from your home time. Or even simpler: Press the small button above the crown until the desired time zone or city is at the twelve o’clock position. The Tangomat GMT does not show all cities at once; but that makes this watch’s dial clear and readable. Choose the city that belongs to the time zone to see what time it is somewhere else in the world. Then press the button until that city appears in the display window.
And what happens with my world time watch if I simply remain sitting on my sofa at home?
It continues to run normally. And may turn into a wanderlust watch. If you have a great job at home but miss something or someone faraway, then the second time display can give wings to your dreams. Or each glance at the watch lets you count the days and hours till you are there. Or you have the local time twice, so that whatever part of the watch you look at, you know exactly what time it is on your sofa. And if you’ve drawn the curtains, the 24-hour display tells you—without the sun—whether it’s 10 a.m. or 10 p.m.
Can I as a consumer make special requests?
In order to keep our collection as clear and small as possible, we can only comply with certain requests for individual wishes. For example, it is possible to laser an engraving on the case back of your watch. Upon request we'd be glad to send you an estimate. Though we won't change the dial or handle similar requests.
Why should I register my watch online?
In the event that you lose your watch, it can be very helpful if your watch and its serial number are listed with us. In fact, it happens quite frequently that an honest finder or the police contact NOMOS about a found watch. In such cases, we make sure that your watch finds its way back to you.
How often should my watch go in for service?
As you go to the doctor once in a while or bring your car for a service, every mechanical watch also needs regular maintenance. At the latest after three to five years, a complete revision should be carried out by one of NOMOS's authorized dealers or a specialized watchmaker. After this time, it is quite possible that the lubrication may have evaporated. Where metal rubs against metal, wear and tear can be the result. We also recommend having your watch checked once a year for water resistance, and if necessary have it restored—sealing rings are made from rubber and could deteriorate under extreme heat, for example.
If my watch ever breaks down, can I send it directly to Glashütte for repairs?
Most certainly! It is best if you send it in the original NOMOS packaging together with the warranty. Also, it would help us immensely if you could write a few lines describing what happened to the watch or what erratic behavior you have noticed. Our service department will look into it immediately and you will get your NOMOS back safe and sound as soon as possible.
Please send your watch to the following address and enclose the completed shipping form:
What is the best way to send my watch by post?
We recommend insured mail to send your package. Simply inquire at your local post office or delivery service. Please package your NOMOS watch carefully, ideally in the NOMOS watch box, so that it arrives safe and sound. We will get in touch as soon as one of our watchmakers has inspected your watch.
How much do repairs or servicing cost?
In order to assess what your watch needs, we need to see and inspect it. Please understand that we cannot give definite information on defects, causes, and costs by telephone or email beforehand.
After a few years—five at the most—every mechanical watch should be completely cleaned and inspected. Our watchmakers carry out the following tasks: a complete disassembly of the watch, ultrasonic cleansing of all components in special cleaning fluids, exchange of worn parts, reassembly of the caliber, fine timing check and, if necessary, correction of all functions, adjustment in six positions, complete refurbishment of the case in several steps, replacement of the crown, winding stem, gaskets, and case tube if required, restoration of waterproofing, and a final check lasting several days.
In-house movements with manual winding:
Alpha: 220 EUR
DUW 4101/Beta: 245 EUR
DUW 4301/Gamma: 285 EUR
DUW 4401/Delta: 310 EUR
In-house movements with automatic winding:
DUW 5001/Epsilon: 290 EUR
DUW 5101/Zeta: 315 EUR
DUW 5201/Xi: 400 EUR
DUW 3001: 290 EUR
DUW 6101: 315 EUR
It’s helpful to know that parts replaced because of normal wear and tear are included in the cost of a complete service. But if the watch is no longer ticking because of external damage, we may have to replace additional parts. We will charge extra for these—but, of course, will notify you about it beforehand.
If your watch is less than three years old and not running properly, we carry out what we call minor repairs. A complete service is not necessary after such a short time. In this case, our watchmakers carry out the following tasks: a check and correction of all functions, inspection of the caliber and all its parts, replacement of defective parts, fine adjustment in six positions, restoration of waterproofing, and a final check lasting several days.
In-house movements with manual winding:
Alpha: 75 EUR
DUW 4101/Beta: 90 EUR
DUW 4301/Gamma: 105 EUR
DUW 4401/Delta: 120 EUR
In-house movements with automatic winding:
DUW 5001/Epsilon: 110 EUR
DUW 5101/Zeta: 125 EUR
DUW 5201/Xi: 150 EUR
DUW 3001: 110 EUR
DUW 6101: 125 EUR
Please note: When damage has been caused by external factors, we must charge extra for spare parts. If applicable in your case, we will, of course, notify you beforehand.
Refurbishing a case
A knock, bump, or fall can scratch even stainless steel and leave a trace on our watches’ robust cases—or even affect their waterproofing. To repair the damage to the case, or at least greatly reduce traces of use, the following procedures are carried out: a cleaning of the case, several stages of grinding and polishing, straightening the case horns if necessary, and restoring the waterproofing.
Manual winding: 60 EUR
Automatic winding: 70 EUR
World time: 90 EUR
As a general rule, if you send your watch to us via a retailer, you can preapprove servicing up to a certain amount. This means that we can start work as soon as we receive your watch—shortening your wait. If servicing is more extensive than initially thought, we will get in touch. And of course: Even if you send your watch directly to us, you will be notified about the cost of servicing beforehand.
The haute horlogerie watches Lux and Lambda: Each one is unique and is treated as such during servicing and repairs. We will make an individual cost assessment—and then get in touch.
Warranty: All the services we carry out are guaranteed for two years. Waterproofing has a one-year guarantee. Problems resulting from improper treatment of the watch are excluded from the warranty.
All prices include the applicable value-added tax. Postage is extra.
How long will my Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap last?
Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan comes from Texan workhorses whose skin is very dense and thick so that the strap is extremely robust, water-repellent, and breathable. It turns comfortably soft after being worn for only a short time. Ordinary leather straps usually last for six to nine months. NOMOS straps will have to be replaced less often.
How should I look after my watch strap?
The leather of your Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap is so rich that you will never have to oil it. If, after temperature fluctuations, it looks as if it has been powdered, it is just a little oil coming out—which can easily be polished away with a soft cloth. Otherwise, your strap will not need any specialist care. If you like, you can wash it with a mild detergent and leave it to dry in the air. Then briefly rub it with a cloth until it recovers its shine. You can clean velour leather watch straps with the sort of brush that you would use for suede shoes or jackets. The textile strap is best cleaned with water and soap or a mild detergent. Rinse the strap thoroughly afterwards to ensure that no traces of cleaning materials remain. Afterwards, leave it to air-dry before reattaching your watch.
My Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan now has some ugly white spots. What does this mean?
If your strap was subjected to great changes in temperature it occasionally looks powdered afterwards. That is only grease that seeped from the material and can be easily polished away with a soft cloth.
Why does my Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan look a bit brownish?
Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan—a special horse leather—comes from the particularly massive hind quarters of Texan workhorses. For several months, our straps are tanned in an elaborate manufacturing process using pure vegetable lye. The coloration occurs only on the surface. Furthermore, the strap is cut at the edges. That means that the natural color of the leather after tanning remains at the lugs and on the underside. And as the basic material is usually brown, many of the straps have a slight brownish tone to them. This is not a sign of inferior quality, it rather confirms that we are dealing with a natural product.
Can I also get a metal bracelet for my watch?
Unfortunately, no, not yet from us. This may be about to change though. Stay tuned!
Are all straps made from Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan?
Since spring 2010, you can also get straps made from suede. They are attached to the smaller NOMOS watches since the more delicate watches look nicer with those straps. And more delicate wrists do too. Those straps are not quite as wear-resistant as the Shell Cordovan ones, but they are quite robust nevertheless. The Ahoi model family comes with a textile strap, perfectly suited to every adventure on land and in water. New and only for the neomatik series, we also have straps from fine full-grain leather—these accompany the neomatik watches with champagne-colored dials.
How long are the straps?
Please find the lengths of the straps below. All lengths are stated without clasps.
Size XS: long part 95 mm, short part 60 mm
Size S: long part 105 mm, short part 70 mm
Size M: long part 118 mm, short part 75 mm
Size L: long part 128 mm, short part 85 mm
Size XL: long part 140 mm, short part 95 mm
What does “width” mean?
The lug width is the distance between the watch’s two lugs. The easiest way is to measure this distance on one of your current straps.