Crown
Usually found at 3 o’clock on the case, this small wheel has a disproportionally large role to play in the function of a mechanical watch. What is it used for? How was it developed? And what is unique about the crowns found on NOMOS watches? Find the answers below.
What is the function of the crown on a watch?
The crown on a watch is often a multi-functional tool—used to wind the watch, but also set the time, adjust the date, as well as other sub-dials. This is achieved through turning the crown either clockwise or counterclockwise, which can be done when the crown is flush to the case or pulled out to a certain position. A crown has at least two positions, and sometimes up to four.
In hand-wound watches, the crown is the sole source of power for the mainspring, which powers the mechanical caliber within. This is usually achieved by turning the crown clockwise when flush to the case. Once the mainspring is fully wound, you will feel a clear point of resistance; in automatic watches, there is no such point, which is why wearers are advised to only give the crown a few turns to get the watch ticking again if necessary.
The crown is also used to set the time of the watch by pulling it out to the first position to wind the hands forward or backward. Sports watches sometimes feature a “screw-down crown,” which must be secured firmly to ensure a high level of water resistance. In Club Sport neomatik 42 date from NOMOS Glashütte, the winding stem of the crown is also red—which lets the wearer know when the crown is not fully screwed in. Some crowns also incorporate a mobile pushbutton for operating a chronograph mechanism or to release the cover of a hunter case.
How long have mechanical timepieces had crowns?
The crown as a winding tool for mechanical timepieces was first developed around 1820 in England. In 1838, Audemars launched the first pocket watch with a crown winding mechanism. The mechanism was further developed and patented in the 1830s. The crown replaced winding keys, which had been used to wind timepieces until this point. The first designs for these permanently attached knobs were often rounded and fluted, bearing a strong visual similarity to crowns. Hence the name!
What is special about the crowns on NOMOS watches?
At NOMOS Glashütte we have 25 different crowns. These vary by design and size. Take Metro, for example: Its distinctive diamond knurling is unique to this watch model. This attractive design detail takes its inspiration from the grips of watchmaking tools—and makes the crown easier to grip and turn. Other NOMOS crowns are angular and flat, or rounded and gently domed. All are carefully proportioned to the case and feature a delicate engraving of the NOMOS Glashütte logo.