Questions all around the watches

The inscription “Made in Germany” began appearing on our watches in mid-2003. Later, when we reorganized production and began making our own in-house movements in April 2005, we also shortened the lettering on the face to read simply “Germany.” After a while, we changed this diminutive label back to “Made in Germany” because we realized it actually does have a nicer ring to it.

Fine adjustment regulation (something that few manufacturers offer at all) ensures the greatest possible accuracy. Before leaving NOMOS Glashütte, all watches are thoroughly put through their paces—the NOMOS controllers spend several days testing them in six different positions to ensure each watch is working properly. NOMOS Glashütte uses three different regulation systems: the Triovis fine adjustment system, the DUW adjustment with the NOMOS swing system, as well as the swan neck fine adjustment found in our gold models, Lux and Lambda.

The swing system, also known as the escapement, assortiment, or reglage, is the heart of a mechanical watch and comprised of the balance, balance spring, pallet wheel, and pallet. It sets the pace and ensures that the watch ticks accurately. It is a declaration of independence for NOMOS Glashütte to be able to produce its own swing system, and a work of considerable watchmaking skill.

It will be in the future. The NOMOS swing system will gradually be extended to all current watch models.

The Nivarox escapement—which we have previously used in all our watches and are still using in some of them—is of excellent quality, ensuring outstanding accuracy. For this reason, we do not offer the option to exchange this escapement for the new NOMOS swing system; this also applies during servicing.

Both types of mechanical watches (hand-wound and automatic watches) always exhibit an element of tolerance as far as accuracy is concerned. This depends on the way a timepiece is worn, for example. Variations in temperature and air pressure, minor jolts and irregular winding can also have an influence.
Mechanical watches from NOMOS Glashütte achieve an accuracy of less than ten seconds deviation per day. To ensure this, we regulate our mechanical calibers in six positions over the span of seven days. NOMOS Glashütte watches must achieve the best results in all dial and crown positions.

The so-called "nickel regulation" has been in effect since June 2000. It says that objects that touch the skin directly and for extended periods of time may only give off 0.5 micrograms of nickel per square centimeter of skin per week. In general, it doesn't matter how high the percentage of nickel in any given alloy is. Much more important is how much nickel is passed on to the skin.

NOMOS uses 316 L stainless steel for all cases and buckles. This type of stainless steel is not fully free of nickel, but it does not pass nickel on to the skin; the amount of nickel in the alloy is about 12 percent. Thus, the amount of nickel passed to the skin is less than 0.2 micrograms per square centimeter per week and far below the medicinally acceptable amount. Other stainless steel alloys might have a lower percentual amount of nickel in the alloy, but they pass more of it on to the skin.

Nevertheless, it is a fact that allergies don't give a hoot about regulations and limits. We only hear very, very rarely of cases where people were not able to tolerate the materials we use. Unfortunately, however, allergic reactions can never be ruled out all together. We advise people who are very sensitive to choose—in consultation with his or her physician—a material which, in all probability, will not provoke an allergic reaction.

It is our goal to use the best possible materials for you. And this is not only true for the steel we use. For example, our straps are tanned in an elaborate manufacturing process using vegetable lye only.

Particularly water-resistant watches have this feature noted on their casebacks. If your NOMOS watch has the addition 30 atm or 20 atm on its back then, according to the DIN standard, you can go diving with it. The description 10 atm reveals that your watch is suitable for swimming and snorkeling; 5 atm means that you can shower with your watch on. All other NOMOS watches are protected to 3 atm and generally prefer to stay dry; they are splashproof, so wearing them while washing your hands will not cause them any problems, but you should take them off before a dip in the pool. It is recommended to have the water resistance of a mechanical watch checked once a year by a retailer. It only takes a moment.
Please note: The three models Ahoi, Tangente Sport, and Club Sport come with a screw-drown crown. Please remember to screw the crown back in after use—as this is the only way to ensure your watch stays water resistant. To do so, gently push down the crown in its default position and turn it clockwise until you feel some significant resistance. The crown should never be wound while underwater.

If you wear a NOMOS automatic, you don't have to do much. Your watch winds itself using the motion of your arm. The spring in the automatic movement tensions itself regardless of how the arm is moving.

We recommend to the owners of manually wound watches to wind your watches regularly—best is every morning. Then it will have enough energy for the whole day to withstand all of the trials and tribulations you might undergo.

Wind your watch by turning the crown clockwise between your thumb and forefinger until you feel a clear point of resistance. Once your watch is fully wound, your NOMOS has a power reserve of 43 hours. Without having to rewind, it will run for two days. Only the watches with date have a little less (42 hours), as the changing the date costs the watch energy.

No—because NOMOS automatic watches have been installed with a clutch mechanism so that all parts in the movement stand still when it is wound by hand (which is also why you don’t feel any resistance while winding). The new extra-thin automatic movements DUW 3001 and DUW 6001 work slightly differently: When you wind them, you will soon notice that the resistance of the crown increases—this means that the watch has been given enough energy. The rotor stops when it is fully wound, which protects the fine caliber against wear. Either way: You can wind your automatic NOMOS watch without any worries, but the self-winding mechanism will also take care of this job for you.

a) The calibers DUW 4401, DUW 4101, DUW 5101, Zeta

This is how it’s done: Just pull out the crown and turn the hand forward until the date has changed once. (Models with a screw-down crown require the crown to be unscrewed for this.) Then turn the hands back at least three or four hours until you hear a slight clicking sound. Each time you wind the hands forward again by about three hours, the date will change once more. Repeat this process until you have reached your desired date. When setting the time on your watch, keep in mind whether it is before or after midday so that the date will change at 12 am and not 12 pm. In models with a screw-down crown, please remember to screw the crown back in after use—as this is the only way to ensure your watch stays water resistant.
Even though this might sound somewhat complicated, it is really quite simple. Just try it. In the little guarantee booklet that you received along with your watch, the setting of the date is also described in detail.

b) The NOMOS neomatik caliber DUW 6101

Watches with this neomatik caliber can be set even more quickly. In the second crown position—which can be found by pulling out the crown just a little—the date can be set forward and backward very quickly; just a half-turn of the crown will move the date once. (Models with a screw-down crown require the crown to be unscrewed for this.) Furthermore, DUW 6101 has a very small time frame during which the date cannot be changed manually: simply avoid resetting the date between 11:15 pm and 0:45 am. If you do so accidently, however, don’t worry: DUW 6101 is constructed so that this will not damage the mechanism. Should the date come to a halt while switching between two dates, simply pull the crown out as far as it will go and set the time to shortly after 1 am—or back to 11 pm. The date display will then return to its original position. To set the time in watches with this caliber, just pull the crown as far out as it will go—into the third position. In models with a screw-down crown, please remember to screw the crown back in after use here as well.

In general, every NOMOS watch except Tetra 27 can be refitted with a sapphire crystal case back. We’ll be happy to send you an offer upon request.

The best setting is 650 turns per day with alternating rotation direction.

There are a great number of magnetic fields in our everyday environment—including anywhere where electricity is present, such as close to personal electronic devices. Unfortunately, these magnetic fields can have a negative effect on a mechanical watch: they can affect the escapement parts of the caliber, stopping it from working properly. This is usually noticeable by a watch suddenly gaining time. However, losing time or stopping all together can also be a consequence of a watch becoming magnetized.

If you suspect that your watch has been magnetized, ask your retailer if they have a demagnetization machine. This can demagnetize your watch in only a few minutes, if required. Of course, you can also send your NOMOS directly to us in Glashütte. However, please note: since magnetization is not a defect of the watch, we are unfortunately unable to carry this service out under guarantee.