Research and development
At first glance, mechanical movements look exactly the same today as they did 200 years ago: Cog wheels, screws, springs, and pinions, all perfectly arranged. On closer inspection, however, a lot has been refined. It's an ongoing process; there is still a lot to research and develop if you value independence, precision, and durability—as well as a consistently elegant watch design.
The NOMOS moon landing
The escapement, consisting of balance and balance spring, as well as the pallet and escape wheel, is the central element of a watch movement. Only a small number of manufacturers worldwide can afford to design and make this centerpiece themselves. NOMOS Glashütte is one of them. Seven years of research and eleven million euros were invested in the development of the NOMOS swing system. Its introduction in 2014 made the watch manufacturer technologically independent—and for an owner-managed company, this was tantamount to landing on the moon.
The blue balance spring is a highly visible feature of the NOMOS swing system. The NOMOS proprietary DUW regulation system was also designed to meet the needs of maximum caliber elegance. As such, it does not require a regulating screw; the regulator and studs are attached to rings on the balance bridge and can be regulated from above.
The art of constructing an escapement involves watchmaking expertise, perfect geometry, and precise micromechanics. The Dresden University of Technology and the Fraunhofer Institute were also involved in the development of the NOMOS swing system.
The balance spring must be perfectly parallel in the final curve; the positioning of the pallet lugs depends on the hundredth of a millimeter.
neomatik movements
neomatik stands for 'new automatic.' This class of movement is finer, more elegant, and more precise than anything that could be produced in large numbers before; automatic and still as thin as hand-wound watch thanks to optimized materials, proprietary technology, and a sophisticated design.
DUW 3001
NOMOS caused a technical sensation in 2015 with the first neomatik caliber. At just 3.2 millimeters in height, DUW 3001 is wafer thin and makes automatic watches that are as elegant as dress watches and yet remain affordable. The bidirectional winding rotor has an unusually high efficiency of 94.2 percent.
Understanding DUW 3001
DUW 6101
The date mechanism of the DUW 6101 is not mounted on top, but fully integrated into the movement. The unique function of the date mechanism is patented. Of course, you can also change the date yourself, very quickly by simply turning the crown in either directions.
Understanding DUW 6101DUW 3202
A globe in gold adorns the winding rotor of the neomatik world time caliber. This astonishingly thin movement is also a completely new design: The world time mechanism and the 24-hour home time function are not additional components, but are part of the basic structure.
Understanding DUW 3202
Patents
NOMOS watches are uniquely thin, in a way that cannot be copied. Precision and performance cannot be achieved in such a small space without the original movement parts, the watchmaking know-how, and NOMOS technology. Some mechanisms are patented, such as the date change mechanism of the neomatik movement DUW 6101 and the power reserve indicator of the hand-wound caliber DUW 4401.
Date mechanism
The date technology of DUW 6101 includes a date ring on the outside of the movement, which is moved in an innovatively safe and space-saving manner. The date can also be quickly adjusted by hand in both directions using the crown. Although there is a locking time while the movement itself is switching, the mechanism is not damaged by manual adjustment attempts during this phase either. This level of security is rare in the world of watches.
The elegant centerpiece of the patented technology is the date wheel with the triangular cam, which is surrounded by a pivoting click. The carrier wheel is driven by a second wheel underneath.
Ring date
This extraordinary display is a consequence of the extraordinary technology—or vice versa, because at NOMOS design and construction go hand in hand. The date ring around the movement makes the NOMOS ring date possible, in which two markers move along the edge of the dial and frame the current day.
Tangente neomatik 41 Update was the first watch with a ring date. This iconic example of NOMOS automatic watches has won several awards for its technology and design.
The date ring is also placed around the movement of the hand-wound caliber DUW 4601. Tangente 2date makes use of the possibilities with the ring date and a date window at 6 o'clock.
Power reserve indicator
The power reserve display mechanism in Metro date power reserve is ingeniously simple and also patented. It consists of just three wheels: the window cog wheel and the cog wheel that carries the indicator, which are mounted on top of each other, and a planet cog wheel that meshes with the other two. The display on the dial in mint and red by Berlin-based designer Mark Braun is one of the many design classics from NOMOS Glashütte.
The power reserve indicator of a mechanical watch—which tracks how long until it needs to be rewound—was invented in the 18th century for marine chronometers. The complication played a greater role on wristwatches in the middle of the 20th century. At that time, it was used to demonstrate that automatic watches actually wound themselves through movement. On hand-wound watches such as Metro date power reserve, however, the power reserve indicator expresses the pure joy of mechanics.