Mechanical watch
What is a mechanical watch?
A mechanical watch is powered by a clockwork mechanism. The energy required is generated by regular manual winding or a rotor that uses kinetic energy, which automatically winds the watch when worn. The movement within—comprised of cog wheels, springs, pinions, and other components—move hands around the watch’s dial to display the time. Mechanical watches are powered by the energy stored in the mainspring, which is released slowly to move the hands.
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Functionality
How do mechanical watches work?
All mechanical watches work the same way—namely the energy stored in the caliber is slowly released to move their hands around the dial and power additional functions, such as a date display. Mechanical watches can be divided into two sub-categories: hand-wound and automatic.
Hand-wound watches require manual winding to function. When the crown is wound, it sets a series of cog wheels into motion, which transfer energy from the watch’s crown to its mainspring.
By contrast, automatic watches wind themselves. They are powered by a mechanical caliber equipped with a winding rotor that moves when the watch is worn, supplying the mainspring with energy.
The escapement ensures that the mainspring releases its energy in a controlled manner. One of the wheels—the escape wheel—is regularly stopped by the anchor before the energy flows to the oscillating system; the balance wheel, which oscillates in a constant rhythm with its balance spring. The interaction between the escapement and the balance wheel is responsible for the watch's precise movement. The pallet's interaction with the escape wheel produces the ticking sound characteristic of mechanical watches.
What are the main components of a mechanical watch movement?
The main components of a mechanical watch are:
- the base plate on which the movement is built
- the winding system with the crown
- the barrel with the mainspring
- the gear train
- the escapement with the pallet and escape wheel
- the balance with the balance wheel and balance spring
- the hands mechanism
- the rotor in automatic watches
- the movement bridges or upper plate—or in the case of Glashütte watches, the traditional three-quarter plate.
The escapement and balance are also collectively referred to as the assortment (French for selection, multiple parts). NOMOS Glashütte is one of the few manufacturers worldwide that produces its own: the NOMOS swing system.
What complications can mechanical watches have?
Complications in mechanical watchmaking refer to the additional functions that a timepiece can have—above and beyond its main task of telling the time. At NOMOS Glashütte, our watches come with the following complications: power reserve indicator, date, and world time function. Other complications include a moon phase display, a perpetual calendar, an alarm, or a stopwatch function.
Learn more about complications in mechanical watches hereMechanical, automatic, quartz or smartwatches – what’s the difference?
The main difference lies in the movement and the way the watch is powered:
- Mechanical watches work without a battery. They are wound either manually (by turning the crown) or automatically through movement.
- Automatic watches are mechanical watches that wind themselves—using a rotor that turns when the wrist moves.
- Quartz watches have an electronic movement powered by a battery that uses quartz to set the pace.
- Smartwatches are fully electronic devices. They have rechargeable batteries and usually require a charger or charging station.
Can you overwind a mechanical watch?
Yes, the mainspring in a hand-wound watch can be overstretched, but this is very rare. When turning the crown on a hand-wound watch, you will notice a distinct point of resistance as soon as the mainspring is fully wound. This is because the outer end of the spring is firmly connected to the barrel. Considerable force would be required to exceed this point, making accidental over-winding virtually impossible.
Automatic watches, on the other hand, have a slip clutch that connects the outer end of the mainspring elastically to the barrel. Once the spring is fully wound, it simply slips through. Overwinding is therefore impossible with automatic watches; neither turning the crown too hard nor moving it too much can damage the winding mechanism.
Are mechanical watches waterproof?
Mechanical watches certainly can be waterproof. The case is the decisive factor for how waterproof any watch is. The sealing between the glass and the metal case must be exact—and the crown requires extra attention to ensure that no water can enter through the gap for winding stem. Features such as rubber seals, case screws and screw-down crowns can be used to make a mechanical watch more waterproof. At NOMOS Glashütte, for example, the water resistance of our timepieces ranges from 3 atm to 30 atm. The measurement “atm” stands for atmospheres—or how much pressure the case can safely withstand. The higher this measurement, the more waterproof the mechanical watch is.
Advantages
Why choose a mechanical watch?
There are several good reasons why a mechanical watch is an excellent choice. For some watch wearers, it is an appreciation of craftmanship that draw them to this traditional way of timekeeping. For others, a mechanical watch represents an investment in a high-quality product that will last. With many other ways to keep track of time, a watch is no longer a necessity. Therefore, wearing a mechanical watch is more about making a statement about what is important to you. Although they are quite useful too!
How to find the best mechanical watch for you?
There’s a lot of choice out there and it can be difficult to know where to start. So here are five things you should consider:
Design and functionality
The main function of any watch is to tell the time, so a clear and legible design that is also pleasing to the eye should be considered essential. Furthermore, a mechanical watch is a personal possession designed to last a lifetime. For this reason, it is worth selecting a timepiece that will suit your taste for the years to come.
The movement within
Dial design is important of course, as is the size of the watch relative to your wrist. However, the decisive factor when it comes to the accuracy of a mechanical timepiece is the movement within. A high-quality movement should not lose or gain more than a few seconds a day—which means that your watch can keep you on time.
Servicing options
Mechanical watches benefit from regular servicing; ideally every five years at the latest. When considering which watch is best for you, it is worth bearing this in mind. Do you have an official retailer near you to assist? Or an independent watchmaker? Alternatively, many watch manufacturers may allow you to send your mechanical timepiece directly to them for servicing when required.
Return on investment
Selecting a mechanical timepiece is an investment—and as such, it is reasonable to consider what sort of return you might expect. Some watch brands or watch models are much more desirable on the resale market than others, for example. Alternatively, a return on investment may mean a timepiece that can be passed onto a future generation, still keeping excellent time after decades of use.
Quality of materials
For mechanical watch to last it needs to be crafted from high-quality materials. Surgical-grade stainless steel (316L) or 18kt solid gold are excellent choices for the case—which, after all, is sitting next to your skin for hours on end. Sapphire crystal glass is one of the hardest materials out there, making it the best choice for watch glass to protect the dial underneath. And finally, the strap or bracelet: high-quality leather like the Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather straps used at NOMOS, textile or stainless steel should keep your mechanical watch safely on the wrist, where it belongs.
When it comes to a mechanical watch, the dial is often the very first part that you notice; there’s a reason it’s also known as the “face” of a timepiece. As such, the design of this essential part is decisive for the overall appeal. The typography, hands, and additional complications all have their role to play here. But the very first thing that is likely to catch your attention is the color. When it comes to this aspect, there are a myriad of opinions and preferences. We’ve answered some of the most frequently asked questions about dial colors here:
Accuracy
How accurate are mechanical watches?
Both types of mechanical watches (hand-wound and automatic watches) always exhibit an element of tolerance as far as accuracy is concerned. This depends on the way a timepiece is worn, for example. Variations in temperature and air pressure, minor jolts and irregular winding can also have an influence.
Mechanical watches from NOMOS Glashütte achieve an accuracy of less than ten seconds deviation per day. To ensure this, we regulate our mechanical calibers in six positions over the span of seven days. NOMOS Glashütte watches must achieve the best results in all dial and crown positions.
What makes a mechanical watch accurate?
The accuracy of a mechanical watch is largely determined by the precision of its caliber—specifically the pace-setting part, known as the escapement. That is why we at NOMOS Glashütte ensure that all our timepieces are powered by an in-house developed and built escapement. Known at the NOMOS swing system, this component allows us to ensure the excellent timekeeping of our mechanical watches, independent of third-party suppliers.
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Furthermore, we adjust our mechanical calibers so precisely that the movements achieve the same accuracy in our in-house tests as chronometer-tested watches. Mechanical watches from NOMOS Glashütte must achieve excellent results before being sent out into the world.
Longevity
Do mechanical watches hold their value?
Many factors influence whether a watch holds its value on the resell market—the quality of materials used, the craftmanship of its production, and the aesthetic appeal of its design, to name just a few. High-quality materials, expert craftmanship and award-winning design come as standard at NOMOS Glashütte, which is why all our timepieces (hand-wound watches and automatic watches) retain their value for the years to come. Our limited editions are particularly popular, and often gain in value over time.
How often should mechanical watches be serviced?
Mechanical watches need regular maintenance. After five years at the latest, a complete revision should be carried out by a watchmaker. At NOMOS Glashütte, this process consists of a complete disassembly of the watch; ultrasonic cleansing of all components; exchange of worn wheels, pinions, or springs if required; and at the end, the newly assembled caliber will undergo adjustment in six positions once again.
The case is also refurbished in several stages: the crown, winding stem, sealant, and tubes are replaced if necessary, and water resistance is restored. Including the final inspection, the entire process takes several days—a worthwhile effort to ensure that the watch will continue to be a reliable companion for many years to come.
Can mechanical watches be repaired?
Every single part of a mechanical watch can be repaired. This means that they are one of the most sustainable products out there, since a well-cared for mechanical watch will keep working for a lifetime or more. By contrast, the electronics in a smartwatch or a quartz watch can often not be repaired—meaning if these types of watches break, they simply need to be replaced.
How do I take care of a mechanical watch?
Here are a few tips to keep a mechanical timepiece in perfect working order:
- A mechanical watch must be protected from external damage, such as high pressure, sudden knocks, temperature extremes, large fluctuations in temperaturre, and strong magnetic fields.
- Pay attention to how much water your mechanical watch can tolerate. If this is up to 5 atm, only splashes of water are safe. A water resistance of 10 atm means that you can shower or swim with your watch. The specification “to 20 atm” means that a watch is suitable for diving. If there is no atm specification on a watch, it is best to keep it completely dry.
- Important to note: Never operate the crown or pushers in water! It is also a good idea to have the water resistance of a mechanical watch checked once a year. Sealing rings are made of rubber and can become porous under certain circumstances, such as extreme heat. The test is very quick and can be carried out by most retailers out using a special device.
- This seems obvious, but: Please do not drop your mechanical watch. Most mechanical watches will have high-quality cases made from stainless steel or gold. That said, a drop or a knock could still affect the mechanical mechanism within—not to mention leave a mark on the case itself. Even if this should happen, however, a trained watchmaker can refurbish a mechanical watch and ensure it is back ticking on the wrist.
- Store your watch safely when not in use, out of direct sunlight.
- Hand-wound watches should not be wound on the wrist, so as not to strain the winding mechanism on one side. It is better to wind them before putting them on your wrist, and to only turn the crown until you feel resistance. The watch is then fully wound.
- Be minimal with manual winding: a few turns on the crown should be enough, the rotor does the rest. Don’t use the crown or pushes while in water.
Mechanical watches from NOMOS Glashütte
Where are NOMOS watches made?
NOMOS watches are crafted in Glashütte, Germany. Drawing on over 175 years of watchmaking heritage and tradition, each timepiece is carefully produced by experts in their field. We are proud to be an independent manufactory that produces its own mechanical calibers in-house. In fact, a watch can only bear the title of “Glashütte” on its dial if at least 50% of its value is created in this historic watchmaking town. NOMOS calibers are created almost completely in Glashütte, Germany.
Learn more about Glashütte watchmaking
How are mechanical watches made at NOMOS Glashütte?
We do as much as possible in-house. And when we say in-house, we mean that almost everything from the dial design to mechanical innovation in the calibers and, of course, the watchmaking itself takes place within the company. This applies to our hand-wound and automatic watches. This strategy has several advantages—including keeping our supply chains short and our carbon footprint as small as we can make it. The result? Fine timepieces made to last a lifetime from carefully sourced, high-quality materials. And independence through and through.
The following characteristics are typical of watches made in Glashütte:
- The three-quarter plate, the barrel, and the gear train culminating in the escape wheel: a particularly robust and particularly beautiful construction with a good 150 years’ worth of tradition behind it
- The Glashütte stopwork, a part of the winding mechanism. A specific detail is the long, curved mainspring.
- The most elegant form of rate accuracy: the swan neck fine adjustment.
- Tempered blue screws. They get their corn flower blue color during the heating process—the steel is baked at over 290 degrees Celsius (almost 570 Fahrenheit). This also protects them from corrosion.
- One-of-a-kind touches: perlage, ribbing, and sunburst decoration.
A brief history of mechanical timekeeping
The passing of time is an experience shared by every conscious form of life. It represents an awareness that things change. Observing the sky is also elementary. As early as the Stone Age, constellations were recorded in cave paintings alongside hunting scenes. Sidereal time based on the movement of the stars was used to track the course of the year, while the time of day could be measured using the phases of the sun and moon. Sundials based on shadow sticks are among the earliest timepieces created around 5000 years ago. These ancient communities were satisfied with marking the most important recurring moments of the year, such as the equinoxes, for farming and religious purposes. For this purpose, huge circles of stones or poles were erected; Stonehenge is perhaps the most famous example.
The organizational needs of more complex societies around 3000 BC — such as the Sumerians, Egyptians, or Chinese dynasties — made a more precise division of the day into hours necessary. The principle of pouring water in regular intervals became popular as a way of measuring time, which worked even when the sky was overcast. Later, in the second century BC, the first mechanical clock with a water-powered gear train was created in Greece. In medieval Europe, craftsmen developed gear clocks with weight drives, verge escapements and balance beams. First in church towers, then in a portable form at the beginning of the 16th century. During this time, the minute hand was added to the single hour hand that had previously been the norm. Another 100 years later, the pendulum clock was patented — and the balance spring was invented, which made it possible to construct pocket watches.
The development of precise mechanical watches was not only promoted by a technical fascination with time, but also by the real-life benefits of precision timekeeping. Marine chronometers were fundamental to European seafaring in the 18th century. With the introduction of the railway as a mode of mass transportation from the 1830s onwards, punctuality suddenly became important for the whole population.
With the exception of a few decorative clasps for women, pocket watches were the main type of mechanical timepiece until the beginning of the 20th century. Mechanical watches for the wrist, or wristwatches as we know them today, were only developed and popularized after World War One with the increasing use of the automobile. After all, when you're behind the wheel, it can be difficult to pull a watch out of your pocket.
In addition to the Swiss production of mechanical watches, there were two important centers of watch manufacturing in Germany from the end of the 19th century. These were located in the Black Forest and in Glashütte, and both survived the division of Germany and the introduction of battery-powered quartz watches, as well as the smartwatch. The craftsmanship, design, and sustainability of a mechanical watch are highly valued by many people. In an increasingly digitalized world, a mechanical watch remains an expression of traditional values and is a worthwhile investment.