Dress watch
Typology
What is a dress watch?
A dress watch is a timepiece that does not typically have a myriad of functions, but rather a refined design and sleek case. It adorns the wrist and displays the time so clearly that it can be easily read with a quick, discreet glance. It does not need any additional features. Picture a timepiece that fits perfectly with a suit—that’s the definition of a dress watch. It should complement the wearer and express their personal style, without overwhelming the rest of their outfit.
What is the difference between a dress watch and a tool watch?
In a word—functionality. A dress watch is crafted to add elegance to the wrist on formal occasions. It rarely features complications, other than perhaps a date display. By contrast, a tool watch is made to withstand high-intensity activities and often water as well. It may also feature complications related to a particular sport, such as a rotating bezel on dive watches. This kind of timepiece is designed to be robust and functional, rather than elegant and stylish. Learn more about sport watches here.
Why choose a dress watch?
A dress watch is a wise investment for both women and men for several good reasons.
- An elegant dress watch can make an excellent impression at social events and in professional life.
- A dress watch is a personal accessory for life.
- As one of the main watch types, a dress watch is a must-have for any watch collection.
Whether you are looking for the watch of your dreams or want to start collecting watches, you should think about a dress watch first.
Can a dress watch be worn casually?
In principle, yes. Of course, this depends on your lifestyle—if sport is a major part of your daily routine, a robust sports watch may be a more suitable choice. However, for regular visits to the office, restaurants, cafés, and other more sedentary pursuits, wearing a dress watch will add a touch of elegance to your appearance every day.
How to find the best dress watch for you
For a dress watch to wear elegantly, it must be correctly proportioned for your wrist. Thereby the dial diameter is not the whole story—the lug-to-lug width should also be considered. Most people consider the proportions to be right when this width is about five millimeters smaller than the wrist.
By the way: We include the exact lug-to-lug measurements of all our watches in the product details. Alternatively you can search the NOMOS collection by size here: to the watchfinder.
The choice between automatic and hand-wound watches is a whole topic for itself (which we have covered in some detail here). When it comes to dress watches in particular, automatic movements tend to make watches bulkier, as the winding rotor requires space. The automatic calibers from NOMOS Glashütte, however, are an exception to the rule. At just 3.2 (DUW 3001), 3.6 (DUW 6101), and 4.8 (DUW 3202) millimeters in height, they allow the watches they power to retain an outstandingly slender profile. Learn more about these innovative neomatik calibers from NOMOS Glashütte here.
Design
What design should you choose for a dress watch?
A dress watch should ideally have a timelessly elegant design. At NOMOS Glashütte, we follow the Bauhaus principle that “form follows function”. The main purpose of a dress watch is to add a sophisticated touch to the wrist and to tell the time, without needing to take a conspiciously long look. The clear design of a NOMOS watch, reduced to the essentials, is therefore always a good choice.
How can you tell if a design will stand the test of time?
No one can reliably predict the aesthetic tastes of the future. However, there are a few principles that will guide you away from passing trends and towards long-lasting style. Paying attention to the small details is essential—are the hands and the hour markers well balanced? Does the dial integrate well with the case? Straightforward, clean designs tend to retain their appeal. Last, but certainly not least, choose a design that underlines your personal style. If you have a signature color, wear it on your wrist!
What does Bauhaus design have to do with NOMOS Glashütte?
NOMOS Glashütte is a member of the Deutscher Werkbund, a forerunner of the Bauhaus movement. Founded in 1907 by artists, architects, and entrepreneurs, the association endeavored to create the perfect union of functionality, quality design and industrial manufacturing. This is a mission at the heart of what NOMOS Glashütte still does today. You can read more about the link between Bauhaus and NOMOS Glashütte here.
Materials
Which materials are best for a dress watch?
High-quality materials are a requirement for any fine timepiece, especially a dress watch. These will ensure that your dress watch continues to add an elegant touch to your outfit. For example, a solid gold or stainless steel case will age better than one with gold-plating—as the first scratch will reveal the metal underneath. Solid materials can be more easily polished back to a shine. This also applies to the strap, dial, and all the other parts of your timepiece
Should I choose a gold or stainless steel case?
There are benefits to both. Crafted from a precious metal, gold timepieces tend to retain their value and as such, can be considered investment pieces suitable for occasional wear. Stainless steel, being a more robust material, will withstand daily wear with ease. In short, your lifestyle and needs should be the deciding factor!
Should I choose a leather strap or bracelet?
These days, there are a range of strap options—and yet the classic choice, when it comes to dress watches, remains an elegant leather strap. At NOMOS Glashütte, we use Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather for our straps. This high-quality leather is hard wearing, long lasting, and develops a wonderful patina over time. An alternative is a soft velour leather strap or even a slender bracelet crafted from stainless steel. While the right choice ultimately being a matter of personal preference, an understated strap crafted from high-quality materials will present your dress watch at its best.
Complications
Does a dress watch require a date function?
No, a dress watch does not need a date display. However, if it does have one, the date window should be as well placed as in Ludwig neomatik 41 date by NOMOS Glashütte. In this dress watch, the Roman numerals that characterize this model have also been incorporated into the date display, demonstrating that this is about much more than just a function. The same applies to Tangente 2date, a dress watch that features two date displays: a window at 6 o'clock and the NOMOS ring date, which shows the day throughout the entire month. It is both charming and aesthetically appealing.
Which other complications can a dress watch have?
While the date is the classic complication in watches, it is by no means the only one. Some other complications you may find in a dress watch include the power reserve indicator, a second time zone, or even a moon phase. Learn more about complications in mechanical watches here.
A brief history of dress watches
Pocket watches were the main type of timepiece worn until the beginning of the 20th century. However, the drive for elegant timekeeping is much older. In the early to mid-1800s, men’s tailoring radically simplified, eventually giving rise to the two-piece suit we know today. A closer fitting suit meant that a bulky pocket watch would look out of place. For the fashionable elite of the time, a sleeker pocket watch was also a display of wealth. A thinner timepiece requires a high level of watchmaking skill and innovation—and therefore commanded a higher price. Wristwatches were only developed and popularized with the increasing use of the automobile: Sitting behind the wheel, it was no longer so easy to reach into your pocket. These first wristwatches can be considered tool watches, rather than dress watches, as they were originally made for soldiers and pilots to use during warfare. But post-WWI, demand grew for more refined and elegant timepieces to be worn decoratively on formal occasions. And thus, the dress watch was born. You can learn more about the history of mechanical timekeeping here.
Top 3 selected: best dress watches
Admittedly, it's hard for us to choose—but we’ve managed to curate a small selection of our dress watches below. Even though we have much more to offer, of course. Like all our timepieces, these are developed and produced in Glashütte, Germany.
